Steps Beyond: Porto

Our Portugal trip started with a day in Lisbon and as soon as we stepped off the plane I knew that Portugal was going to be special. Our flight was overnight and with jet lag sure to set in, we knew we had to keep moving. After a quick ride from the airport to our Airbnb, we wanted to get out and explore as soon as we could. But first, coffee. We wandered a bit on our own, but what we were really looking forward to was a walking tour with a local. We wanted to learn the history and see the city through a local’s eyes. It turned out to be the best way to start our trip. We laughed, learned, and connected with our guide in a way that made Lisbon feel instantly warm and welcoming. If you ever visit, I highly recommend Lisbon Chill Out Free Tours. Be prepared to walk up all the hills, see Lisbon’s true heart and have the best time with some great people. We ended the tour at one of the most scenic spots in Lisbon.

After hours of travel, exploring and jet lag setting in, we needed nourishment and rest. A good rest because that next morning we were off to Porto.

Originally, Porto wasn’t part of the plan. We had booked an Airbnb in Lisbon for the entire trip and thought we’d do a few easy day trips from there. Simple, right? But the closer we got to the trip, the more Porto kept popping into our minds. Something about it felt magnetic. So, we booked a few nights up north. Just to see.

I had watched plenty of videos about Porto. People raved about it, but on screen I didn’t fully get why. That changed the moment we arrived. Somewhere between the train winding through Portugal’s countryside and our first glimpse of Porto’s rooftops stacked above the Douro River, something shifted. It wasn’t just that the city was stunning… it felt like it had been waiting for me.

Usually when in a new situation or city my anxiety is on high alert. There was something about Porto that put me at ease. It was like the city was saying, “You’re good. Take your time. You’re exactly where you need to be.” Even being in the steady flow of traffic in the train stations and from the second we stepped into our destination at São Bento station, with its walls lined in tiles that tell stories from centuries past, I felt calm. The tiles, or azulejos, were absolutely stunning and truly set the tone for what to expect when you walk through the doors and experience Porto.

Our plan was to stay two nights in Porto and head back to Lisbon, so we only packed light with our backpacks. We were staying in the heart of Porto, so our walk was short, but the hilly streets were a good workout. In that short walk, we were already enamored with the beauty of the buildings, but we had no idea what was waiting for us in our room. The view from our balcony? One of those views you don’t forget.

Fueled by caffeine and curiosity, we stepped out into the city. We had a general idea of where we wanted to go, but honestly? It was more fun to just wander. The bustling streets, the tiled buildings, the layered architecture, the colors… it all felt like something out of a dream. (Quick side note: don’t fully trust your phone’s map in Porto or Portugal in general. Everything looks close until you’re walking straight uphill. Also, not every alley or turn shows up on the map. It’s part of the adventure!)

We stumbled across some amazing architecture, unique shops, charming bakeries, and ended up at the waterfront. Porto sits on the Douro River, and from that side you can see Vila Nova de Gaia, known for its port wine cellars and incredible views looking back toward Porto. (Yes, it lives up to the hype.)

Even though we had been traveling all morning and into the afternoon, we didn’t want to stop exploring. As the sun started setting, we decided to take a lift back up rather than hike the steep streets again. The lift was small, but the view as we ascended was absolutely worth it. We had no idea where we’d end up, but that was the fun of it. I wish I had realized earlier that letting go and letting the day unfold was where the magic happened.

We found ourselves back near São Bento which is also home to the Time Out Market: Porto, a modern food hall with delicious local offerings. Just across the street is one of Porto’s most iconic signs: “Vestir Bem e Barato Só Aqui” (Dress Well and Cheap Just Here). It’s quirky and charming and sums up the vibe perfectly.

That evening, before dinner, we went to a t-shirt shop (Typographia) we’d bookmarked. I had no idea it would end up being one of the highlights of the entire trip. The designs were fun, but it was the person working there who made the moment unforgettable. She welcomed us in, chatted with us like old friends, shared her love for the city, and genuinely wanted to hear our story too. That interaction has stuck with me. I’ve thought about her every day since. That’s what makes travel special… those moments of real connection. I hope that our paths cross again.

Dinner that night was burgers. I know. Not very adventurous. If there is one thing I regret about our trip to Portugal (aside from not just staying there) it would be not eating more Portuguese food. But Holy Sandwich Shop turned out to be one of the best burger spots I’ve ever tried. And the fries? Incredible. We ended up eating there twice. (Tip: get there before they open. The line forms fast.) I’m willing to explore, but my husband is not. To him eating a burger or pizza in Portugal was living on the wild side. We did eat at places where we could both eat what we wanted, but I wish I would have eaten more true local cuisine.

With full bellies and tired feet, we made our way back to our Airbnb. The maps didn’t mention the staircase that looked like it had 500 steps, but we made it. And when we got to the top, breathless and laughing, the view of Porto at night made it all worth it.

Later that evening, our sweet tooth took over. We wandered into a part of Porto that felt younger and more modern, cool bars, great shops, a lively vibe, and yes, gelato. It’s vacation, after all.

The next morning started with breakfast at Mercador Café, just down the hill (thank goodness) from where we were staying. The pistachio latte was next level and the food was exactly what we needed. That’s when we made a decision. Two nights in Porto wasn’t going to be enough. So we extended our stay.

We had only packed enough for two nights, so we did a little shopping, visited a nearby mall, then found ourselves at Mercado do Bolhão. This market became one of my favorite places in Porto. Fresh flowers, candy, local meats, the juiciest fruit, even wine by the glass while you shop. We visited twice and I still didn’t get enough of it.

Even with some light rain in the forecast, we weren’t slowing down. One of the areas we were told to check out was Bonfim, a more artsy, local neighborhood. We only saw a small piece of it, but it had a quiet charm that felt really authentic, like stepping into someone else’s daily rhythm. Adding to the list of things I loved about Portugal (and I think this is just European culture in general) were all of the little cafes and the whole culture around taking time to enjoy a latte or tea. Regardless of the beverage, just the cafe culture of taking time to slow down and enjoy the moment. Or catch up on the latest local gossip.

On the way back to the Airbnb we made another delicious detour, a gelato and chocolate shop that looked like it came straight out of a Pinterest dream. Friendly staff, beautiful displays, and the treats? Top tier.

We had one more stop before heading back to relax. An art studio and shop we had passed a few times during our walks. The artwork had caught our eye each time. Inside, we found hand drawn scenes of Porto and other parts of Portugal, each one brought to life with delicate touches of gold leaf. As we looked around, the artist and his staff welcomed us with warmth and struck up an easy conversation. He told us about a community art project he was working on, where anyone who purchased a piece could add a brushstroke to a collaborative canvas to support a good cause. We were captivated—not just by the art, but by him. He asked about our story and our business, and it turned into one of those effortless, genuine exchanges that stays with you. We left with a piece that shows the Porto skyline from the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the river. It now hangs in our home as a reminder of this trip, of the way Porto made us feel, and as motivation to return or maybe even call it home one day.

As our last night in Porto approached, we had plans to meet up with another traveler for drinks at a popular boho style bar (Aduela), and we wanted to be recharged for it. Beforehand, we decided to check out one of the local LGBTQ+ bars (Bar of Soap). We’re not really bar people these days, but we wanted to dip into the nightlife scene (even though it was early). The space was welcoming and had a laid back charm to it. After that, we made our way to meet up with our new friend and ended the night with great conversation, good drinks, and that familiar feeling we’d come to love in Porto, that we were right where we were supposed to be. It was the perfect way to close out our time in the city before packing up and heading back to Lisbon.

One thing I really loved about Porto was how easy it was to explore on foot. After just a few days, we started to feel like we knew our way around. We could head toward a destination and easily detour down a side street if something caught our eye, knowing we’d find our way back. Whether it was a quick trip to a shop, meeting up with a new friend for drinks, or just an excuse to grab more gelato, we walked almost everywhere. It helped us really feel the heartbeat of the city. And honestly, it felt good to move. After a few days in Portugal—eating delicious fresh food, walking a ton, and soaking up the peaceful energy—we both felt lighter, in the best way. It was the kind of reset I didn’t know I needed.

And that’s what Porto became for me, a city that felt alive in the most grounded, welcoming way. It’s colorful without trying. It’s creative without shouting. It’s got this calm kind of magic that makes you want to slow down and stay a while. A place I didn’t expect to love so much. A place that, somehow, feels like it’s still holding a part of me.

I know we only had a few days there, but they are days I’ll never forget. I can’t wait to return, to see what else Porto has to show me, and to walk those streets again, just a little slower next time.

Next up: we return to Lisbon, freshly in love with Porto, and ready to see the city through new eyes. You won’t want to miss it.

2 responses to “Steps Beyond: Porto”

  1. What a beautiful story! I love that experience. It totally hit home, especially when you said the city spoke to you. I know exactly how that feels. I felt it once when I spent nine days in Provence France. And a couple days in Marseille France.
    I bet the gelato was amazing. The chocolate out there is nothing like what we have out here in the US. The pictures you took are gorgeous! I love all that old world history and the cobblestones. It seems like a beautiful place to retire one day. By any chance were you able to look into the real estate there? Is it expensive?

    Liked by 1 person

    1. It’s so wonderful to have that feeling, right? I love that you also got to experience something similar. I’m sure France is absolutely stunning.
      The food in Portugal was so fresh and delicious. Nothing like what we have here in the US.
      We did look at real estate online. Compared to the US, it isn’t terribly expensive, but by Portugal’s standards, especially for the lovely locals, it has gone up quite a bit. The cost of living is the same way. We were definitely mindful of how it felt for us compared to how it feels for the local people.

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About Me

Hi, I’m Chad. The traveler, small business owner, and writer behind The Space Between Steps. Navigating the space between where I’ve been and where I’m headed.